Unveiling the Secret Charisma of Tunis Medina

When people dream of 1001 nights, they dream of Aladdin’s magic lamp, a genie with three wishes, and a flying carpet upon which the romantic and starry desert night is firmly within their grasp. Storytellers reciting ancient legends and a frenzied Arab market complement the vision, with goods from near and far, and the fragrance of multi-colored spices forming a utopia. For me, a day in the Tunisian medina fulfilled these dreams of Arab legends, and then some.

My first glance of the medina came at Bab el-Bahr otherwise known as the French gate or Porte de France. Inspired by Arc de Triomphe, the ruler of that time Ahmed Bey had the original gate demolished, and by his order the present gate was built in 1848. The gate heralds the beauty of the antique buildings and the colorful merchandise displayed behind it.

From the distance the sounds of Arab music came drifting on the breeze, as the intense heat of the late morning sun embraced my hair. From that very first glance, I could sense the energy of the medina and I pondered just how the medina might have looked during its golden days, long before the French settled this beautiful country. I pondered where did the traders come from, what did they sell, and if they would recognize the market today?

A world heritage site, Tunis medina was built during the 7th century AD and represented the city’s vitality well over a thousand years. Today, the medina contains some 700 historical monuments and its main trade is mainly souvenirs. Like the souqs in Morocco and the bazaars in Turkey, the medina is a labyrinth of shops, mosques, medersas (schools based on the Quran), hammams (bath houses), coffee houses, mausoleums, palaces, and museums.

As chaotic as it seems, medina has a strict hierarchy. Sections are divided according to the Islamic philosophy. It has a mosque – as the centre of learning and faith – that acts as the focal point of any medina. Areas surrounding the mosque are reserved for the ‘dignified trades’, selling religious books, perfumes, and jewelries. Blacksmiths and butchers, which are deemed to make the loudest noises and the most potent aromas, are located far from the central mosque.

In Tunis medina, the central mosque is the Zitouna Mosque (Mosque of the Olive Tree), which was built by the Omayyads in 732 AD. In 864 it was completely rebuilt by the Aghlabids dynasty and was repeatedly altered it until the 19th century.

Rue Jamaa Zitouna, which leads to the mosque, is said to be the tourists’ best starting point to explore the souvenir-hunting side of the medina. It was mine, too, and the rumors prove correct. Whether you are looking for chicha pipes (sheesha pipes, or hookah), stuffed camels, belly dancing costumes, or leather goods, this swarming place has it all.

As I progressed, I realized that shopkeepers would greet almost every – if not every – passersby, “Asslema. Lebes? Ça va?” they’d ask how you are. A simple answer to that question would be, “‘Hamdoullah. Aychek,” which means, “I’m well. Thank you.” The merchants, like almost all Tunisians, are bilingual. They speak Tunisian Arabic, a slightly different adaptation from the standard Arabic, as their first language, and French, which taught at schools from primary levels. Some merchants, however, also speak English, German, and/or Spanish.

I have been warned for scams. In most cases, shopkeepers tried to lure tourists into their shops for a roof-top view of the medina from their shops. They are pretty persistent and can be quite irritating that it has almost gotten on to my nerves. But when I remembered that these people were just trying to be hospitable while making a living, the best I could do was to politely decline. I learnt that politeness must also come in haggling, another inseparable part of shopping in the medina.

After few shops, I began to understand that haggling does have unwritten rules and guidelines both merchants and buyers (myself, for instance) follow. For me as a customer: research and know the value of the item, do not mention a price to the merchants before they mentioned theirs, and start negotiating from one-third from the initial price. One of my travel companions told me that if I couldn’t compromise on a price, which would rarely happen, politely say goodbye to the merchant. No one would end up feeling guilty or being taken advantage from. I left a perfume shop at Souq el-Attarine, the perfume makers’ souq, after happily purchased a 15 milliliter of the fragrant oil for only 3 Tunisian Dinars (around 21,000 rupiahs) when the initial price was 10 dinars.

I then found myself on Souq el-Trouk or Souk of the Turks, where they sell carpets, clothes, and more variety of merchandises. It was late spring and the temperature in the medina was surprisingly comfortable. The medina’s design allows its narrow lanes to be cool in the summer and warm in winter. But I was warned that in visiting medina, I would have to make sure I wasn’t too comfortable I forgot that I was carrying my purse and camera. Pickpockets also “haunt” this place that valuables could be gone within a snap.

Knowing that there are many other small alleys in the medina, I decided to end my expedition at the Place du Gouvernement. This airy area, garnished with shady trees and adorned by sprinkling fountains, seemed to provide an air of tranquility and spaciousness, complementing the medina’s busy, narrow streets medina’ behind it.

The most important building here should be the relatively modern Dar el-Bey. It was built by the Husaynid monarch in 1795, and was extensively remodeled in 1876. Across the road, there is Place de la Kasbah, where the modern municipal building is located, with around ten Tunisian flags decorating its terrace.

Strolling through the medina made me feel as if I was traveling in a 12th century Arab land. Its energy and the hustle and bustle remain unchanged, yet it steadily welcomes the modern world. I could still sense the aura of history, legends, and hospitality.

I realized when people dreamed of the life in those romantic Arabian tales, it was not the characters or the scenery that were the main stars of the story, but it was the air, the feel, and the energy of its backdrop that give the undeniable charisma to the stories. And Tunis medina just gave me a glimpse of that backdrop.

The medina appears to still keep a thousand secrets with thousands more charms, waiting to be discovered. It is hardly possible to explore it in just one day.

Obviously, I didn’t achieve my objective that day.

(Published on The Jakarta Post, 23 Sept 2007)